



We took a tour to Echmiadzin (about 20 km from Yerevan) to see 4 ancient churches. It was a mini bus tour with about dozen others – a couple of Australians, 2 Bulgarians, a German, an Armenian from Argentina, an Armenian from New Jersey and his local girlfriend + two very obnoxious Russians who were constantly talking loudly on their cell phones when our guide Annushka was giving explanations in English. She had to repeat everything in 3 languages – Armenian, English and Russian to accommodate the group. We saw the ruins of a historic church from 7th century (Zvartnots, place of angels) built for St. Gregory the Illuminator by Catholicos Nerses II the Builder. Reputedly it was one of the most beautiful churches in the world, but the earthquake in 930 caused it to collapse. Two other churches Gayane and Hripsime are from 7th century and still working churches.
Echmiadzin was the most significant. It is the Armenian Apostolic Church’s equivalent of the Vatican. We were lucky enough to get there during mass. At the end of mass the head of the Church, the Catholicos (Pope’s equivalent) entered the church. Bo missed getting a personal blessing by inches due to a pushier believer. The mass was impressive with traditional vestments including black hooded cloaks, and a choir of 40 virgins (Bo’s spin) dressed in blue gowns and white veils. When we got back to the minibus, the Russians redeemed themselves by producing a big bottle of Armenian cognac + a set of plastic cups and treating everybody in the group to a round of cognac and some chocolate. We drank to Armenia. After that, the bond was established and all the bad feelings towards the Russians were gone. They sure know what it takes to make friends.
In the afternoon we walked to the Cascade, a set of terraces leading up to the top of one of the hills overlooking the city. A very impressive monument. ** This is the first place I’ve been that whenever I am asked my name I am not subsequently asked to spell it.
Echmiadzin was the most significant. It is the Armenian Apostolic Church’s equivalent of the Vatican. We were lucky enough to get there during mass. At the end of mass the head of the Church, the Catholicos (Pope’s equivalent) entered the church. Bo missed getting a personal blessing by inches due to a pushier believer. The mass was impressive with traditional vestments including black hooded cloaks, and a choir of 40 virgins (Bo’s spin) dressed in blue gowns and white veils. When we got back to the minibus, the Russians redeemed themselves by producing a big bottle of Armenian cognac + a set of plastic cups and treating everybody in the group to a round of cognac and some chocolate. We drank to Armenia. After that, the bond was established and all the bad feelings towards the Russians were gone. They sure know what it takes to make friends.
In the afternoon we walked to the Cascade, a set of terraces leading up to the top of one of the hills overlooking the city. A very impressive monument. ** This is the first place I’ve been that whenever I am asked my name I am not subsequently asked to spell it.

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